The town of Raub in Malaysia is thriving, thanks to a unique and lucrative industry: the cultivation and export of luxury durians. This small town, once a gold mining hub, has transformed its economy with a new golden opportunity.
As you drive through Raub, the iconic durian fruit is everywhere. Its distinctive aroma, a blend of sweetness and pungency, fills the air, leaving an indelible mark on the town's identity. The fruit's presence is celebrated in murals, sculptures, and even road signs, proudly declaring Raub as the home of the Musang King durian.
The Musang King, a buttery and bittersweet variety, has earned the nickname "Hermès of durians" in China, where it is highly prized and sought after. This variety has become a status symbol, exchanged as an exotic gift among the affluent and unboxed on social media.
China's appetite for durians has fueled a global rush, with Thailand and Vietnam leading the way as top suppliers. However, Malaysia is quickly catching up, with its premium varieties like the Musang King gaining reputation and market share.
"Even a small percentage of Chinese consumers is enough to sustain our business," says Chee Seng Wong, factory manager of Fresco Green, a durian exporter in Raub. Wong recalls a time when farmers prioritized oil palms over durians during an economic downturn, but now, the trend has reversed, with oil palms making way for the lucrative durian crop.
The durian's unique aroma, likened to cabbage, sulphur, or sewers, is a divisive topic. It is banned on some public transport and hotels due to its strong scent. Yet, it has found a dedicated fanbase in China, where it is embraced as an exotic delicacy.
"Once I tasted Malaysian durian, I knew I had to bring it to China," says Xu Xin, a 33-year-old durian seller from northeastern China. Xu, along with other Chinese exporters, is confident in the growing market potential.
Raub's success stories are evident in the durian dynasties that have emerged. Farmers like Lu Yuee Thing, known as Uncle Thing, have become millionaires through durian farming. In his family business, sons help with transportation, while daughters manage the finances.
"Durian has greatly contributed to our economy," Uncle Thing says. Despite the challenges of farming, he wakes up at dawn each day to tend to his hilly farm, collecting ripe durians with care.
Once harvested, durians are sorted into different grades, with the finest, Grade AA, destined for China.
China's demand for durians has also become a diplomatic tool, with Beijing signing trade agreements and celebrating bilateral ties. The China-Laos Railway, for instance, transports thousands of tonnes of fruit daily, mostly Thai durians.
However, this rush to meet China's demand has its drawbacks. Food safety concerns have arisen, with Chinese authorities finding carcinogenic chemical dyes in Thai durians. In Vietnam, the shift from coffee to durian farming has impacted global coffee prices.
In Raub, a turf war has emerged, with authorities removing durian trees planted on state land. Farmers argue they have used this land for decades without issue and now face eviction or lease payments.
Meanwhile, China's island province of Hainan is making strides in durian cultivation, aiming for self-sufficiency. Hainan's 2025 harvest is expected to reach 2,000 tonnes, a significant achievement.
While Hainan's progress is notable, Raub remains confident in its superior durians.
"Hainan's success is a concern, but we focus on our farms and increasing yields," Uncle Thing says.
As China pursues "durian freedom," the future of the Musang King's reign is uncertain. Hainan's home-grown durians, though currently a small percentage of China's consumption, could impact Malaysia's market share.
Despite the potential challenges, Raub's residents remain optimistic, believing in the quality and uniqueness of their durians.
"Our durians are simply the best," they say with a smile, a testament to their pride and confidence.
